I
found out (along with everyone else in the free world)
in the
Times, that found out from
thestrongbuzz (I never said I was quick on the draw)
that 71
Clinton Fresh Food will soon close. What a bummer. I
will miss it. Not that I have been there very recently….
but maybe that was part of the problem…
I
like (not ‘liked’ yet) 71 Clinton for several reasons.
One of which is NOT its name. ‘71 Clinton Fresh Food’ is
one of the clunkiest out there. Well, not as clunky as
‘Caviar & Banana Brasserio’. As soon as I heard THAT
name I knew what was in that restaurant’s
future. No, 71’s name was something I always felt
had to be overcome. But overcome it did in spades.
First, it was a pioneer, which took guts. And I like
guts. When it opened the Lower East Side was not very
well know for high-minded cuisine. Second, for how small
the restaurant is, it manages to exude a cozy
comfortableness which bridges the gap between the
rough-around-the-edges neighborhood and the higher-end
of dining. I wouldn’t call it modern design, but
contemporary sure. The biggest reason, though, is that
71 Clinton is the joint where Wylie Dufresne earned his
spot in New York’s ‘Chef Pantheon’. His inventive yet
wonderful food kept coming out of that little kitchen
window in the back. He has since
moved up the street
but 71 has managed to retain most of it’s comfortable
smartness.
So this is no news scoop. Just a fond farewell to one of the cutest little rooms in the city with one of the biggest hearts. It started a neighborhood and it started a career.


