
Moschino
is a great example of a carefully positioned brand. It
manages to deftly bridge the stylistic gap between brands
like Diesel and the
full-on fashion houses of brands such as
Jean Paul
Gaultier and Miu Miu.
Where Diesel is for the younger street wear masses, loaded
with distressed jeans, shoes and interesting watches,
Gaultier is the muscled sailor that applies mascara on the
weekends and Miu Miu is for the independent woman high on
her design sensibility, Moschino strikes a median chord of
fashion with an eye for design full of joyful tears of
whimsy. The fanciful young heiress that can hit the soiree
scene day or night.

The
Moschino logo of tight all-caps type speaks of
straightforward strength but all graphics that swirl around
it lend an air of fairytale. The Cheap & Chic line, hard to
pronounce correctly after the second glass of chardonnay,
dips closest to the Diesel aesthetic. The word ‘cheap’ is
questionable when it comes to mental association, but the
fun of the line overrides any second guesses. Cheap & Chic’s
fragrance line, with it’s blatant visual references to the
comic feme anti-hero Oliveoil, lends a major sense of
playfulness to the collection, and all of the print ad
campaigns only bolster that feeling.
The
Moschino house goes a step further in building a sense of
whimsy into their brand with a careful eye to it’s physical
execution. Conceived by designer and friend
Sean Dix, the
retail spaces of Moschino achieve a balance of
playfulness and crisp, thoughtful design. The Gualtier of
Philippe Starck
is all androgyny and glitter, which is fitting. The
Donald Judd-ness of the Miu Miu spaces works toward the
relentless pursuit of high design and attention to detail
but misses the smart feminine eye behind it (sorry Muccia).
Dix’s design is a stew of modernist sensibility and the
humor and joy inherent in a fashion house that takes
seriously the ‘lightness’ of fashion. An example of this are
the many ‘bureaus’ that hold the store’s stock. The pure
modernist rectilinear form solves the problem of storing
clothing but the application of the baroque elevations give
a tongue in cheek nod to ideas of ornament and design. The
Cinderella Chandelier also is lighting by pure whimsy. As if
the light cast on every woman trying on a new Moschino dress
were that of a fleeting dream come true. Better to grab hold
of the moment now and live in it before it is gone.
Sean Dix’s design solution for the physical expression of the Moschino brand are a lovely fit with the sensibility of the house. If only other brands were as careful… or care free.


